A Shenandoah Weekend

Wanting to get in another out-of-state adventure in 2016, Emma and I took off last Friday from work and planned a 3-day, 2-night camping adventure in the Shenandoah Valley based off this route.  The planned route is a 2 day, single overnight loop, but we were going to take the extra leg off the loop to visit the fire tower on day 2.  But of course, leave it to late-September/early-October weather to throw a wrench into the works.

The plan was to leave Pittsburgh Thursday evening after work and drive halfway there and spend the night in Berkeley Springs, WV.  It rained most of the way there and the weather was just calling for more rain on Friday, but clearing up by Saturday.  We went to bed hoping for the best but mostly having already made the decision to cut out one day of camping and planning for a 2nd night in a hotel.

In the morning it wasn’t raining when we packed up to head south, but it ended up raining on and off throughout the morning.  We fully committed instead to a city day in Harrisonburg.  We rolled into town and traffic was crazy around James Madison University and we would later find out it was Parents’ Weekend and perhaps Homecoming?  Due to this, all hotels within Harrisonburg were booked up, so I tried working AirBnB, Warmshowers and other angles to find another close and affordable place to stay the night.  No luck, so we ended up having to stay another half hour south of the city.

Regardless, we had a good day hanging out in the city, spending some time at a nice cafe, checking out the Quilt Museum, seeing a matinee of ‘The Magnificent Seven’, and eating some Chipotle while it continued to rain on and off throughout the day.

In the morning we drove to our start point at the Stokesville Lodge, a lodge/campsite, where we could park and leave the car.  We got to meet some VA folks who were camping there, met a couple DC dudes who were doing the same loop as us and met the lodge’s owner’s dog who was named SRAM.  The DC dudes said it was their first bikepacking trip and seemed a bit hesitant, but they headed out before us and we never saw them again (tho’ we would see their tire tracks in the mud ahead of us the rest of the day), so we assume things went ok for them.

Getting started…about a mile in and entering the national forest

By the time we headed out at 11:30am, the rain had quit but the air was still quite heavy with moisture and the skies were cloudy.  The first 20 miles were rolling country roads and some well packed gravel forest roads.  Nothing too challenging.  But then we hit the hill.  A mixture of mud, rocks, aggressive elevation gain, moist heavy air and warming temperatures caused us to slow down.  Emma was having trouble breathing and was struggling so we started what would become mostly a hike-a-bike section.

Getting mucky

29995545811_0d19e2dfc1_zNot quite smooth sailing

The road got to such a shape that we thought to ourselves, “There’s just no way that any normal vehicle could use this road, right?”  About 3 miles up the hill we suddenly hear what sounds like a vehicle and sure enough, a minute later a pickup pulling a trailer with a pile of 2×4’s and a generator came up.  We pulled off to the side and let him pass.  The guy stopped and said “You guys sure are roughing it”, chuckled and was on his way.  About another mile up we heard another vehicle and this big SUV, maybe a Toyota 4Runner, comes up and its these 2 dudes who said they rode the route earlier on their motorcycles and wanted to see if they could take their truck on it too.  We watched as they climbed over some impossible rocks and vanished ahead of us.  Crazy.

As we approached what we thought was the top of the ride, we saw a bunch of young dudes in Jeeps hanging out and asked “Is this Meadow Knob?” (our destination) and they said “Nope.  You got another couple miles.  You’ll know it when you get there.”  We groaned knowing we had that much more mileage to do but were appreciative for the clear information on our destination.  It was beginning to feel like we would never get there.

After 6+ hours of riding and pushing we arrived at our destination and it was totally worth it.  The sun had burned through the clouds and Meadow Knob was sunny and bright and you could see the many ridges in the distance.  We found a perfect, somewhat secluded spot to set up our camp, ditched our bikes for a bit and went to introduce ourselves to the other folks camping up there.  There were 3 dudes and their various children who all were car camping, having climbed up the other side of the mountain in their big SUV’s.

29450821644_1c37377e27_zEmma emerges up onto Meadow Know into the glorious sun!

We then setup camp and Emma prepared us some miso soup with noodles, mushrooms and seaweed for dinner.  As we cleaned up from dinner and made our evening tea, the fog began to overtake the hills again.  The sun was getting blocked out again. You could still see it but it was so pale it looked like the moon.  We took our tea up to the roaring fire the other campers made and hung out with them all until well after the sun went down.  When Emma and I decided to head back to the tent, we could hardly see more than 4 feet in front of us due to the fog being so thick.  We successfully avoided falling into the mud bog pit or tumbling down the hill to get back to our tent.

At one point in the night I was awoken by a sound and got a bit freaked out because it sounded like footsteps.  Thhpt.  Thhpt.  Thhpt.  But then I realized it was just a light breeze blowing the rainfly on our tent against our tent.  No bears.  A few hours later I would wake up and get out to piss and in my blurry vision I could see stars above us.  The fog had cleared out again.  I grabbed my glasses so I could get a better look and Emma also got out of the tent and we had a shivery moment standing outside in the dark staring at the sky.  Beautiful.

In the morning the sun shone bright, like a sharp blazing orange pinpoint through the trees and the horizon.  We did our best to pack up and get out quickly, but cool mornings and wet tents make for a slower start.

30078932025_6d39f2c5e7_zLazer beam sun waking us up

29451071534_ff0201366f_zEmma using the entire firepit as a windscreen for the stove

We said our goodbyes to our fellow campers and rolled out a little before 9am.  After a short descent from Meadow Knob we almost immediately encountered another washed out rocky and muddy climb up towards the Flagpole Knob.  About a mile and half out we heard the telltale rumblings of some dirtbikes — many of them and soon saw them ahead of us, turning onto the next service road leading off the side of the road we would be taking. We let that group of motorcycles go by and continued on our way only to be greeted by more a minute later.  Soon enough, there was an almost constant stream of bikes coming up the hill, so we took to a safe spot next to the road and waited out as probably 100+ bikes passed us by.  After about a half-hour we finally had an opening and began making our way down the road again and got out to a more wide open section of the road.

It’s too early for this shit.

30044707076_9f90bc02a9_zZoom!  Zoom!

At this point one rider stopped to talk to us.  An older guy, he told us it wasn’t a race but just an organized ride (later we would find out it was the Shenandoah 500, a ride that always happens the first weekend in October).  He told us he was really stoked to see us up on top of the hill and congratulated us on being hardasses.  He talked about having been a mountain biker back in the day.  A nice quick conversation as other bikers passed him by and then he was on his way.

Back on our bikes we had a great dirt road descent.  The road was a little tore up from all of the motorcycles running over it but it felt good to be moving at a nice speed again.  We got to the bottom of the hill and ran into a guy named Wolfgang who was doing marshaling for the Shenandoah 500.  When he learned we had climbed up over the other side of the hill he said “Haven’t been on that section of road in years.  I remember it being pretty boney.”  We agreed.

From there we got on some pavement climbing up to Reddish Knob where there was a nice little scenic overlook lot.  We made peanut butter and apple slice sandwiches and relaxed for a bit.  After our rest, we rode down from the knob to where we would have camped on night two had our original plan happened.  It was a lovely campsite overall though there was a ton of garbage laying around which was pretty sad.  And there was a firepit that was built up out of rocks at least 18″ tall that just seemed a bit excessive.

The view from Reddish Knob.  Look at that ocean of clouds in the distance!!

Back on some nice well-packed gravel forest roads we began making good time again only to jump back on another few miles of dirt roads for a bit.  We rolled back to Stokesville Lodge right around 2:00pm as the VA folks we had met the previous day were all packing up their camp to leave.

Off with our muddy clothes, we packed everything up and got ready to head back home.  Of course we couldn’t get a cell signal and weren’t 100% sure how to get back to the interstate, but did our best retracing of the previous days steps and made it back to the “scenic highway” and found our way back to the interstate.  Not too long after getting onto the interstate, the rains would come back, some pretty heavy, though short, downpours that I was glad to be inside the car for. Unfortunately not long or hard enough to really wash all the filth off our bikes.

A trunkload full of filthy bike bags, bottles and whatnot.

Overall a pretty solid getaway.  Not quite the adventure we had initially planned for but that’s really the thing — plans will get f’d up and you need to be adaptive.  Do or do not.  Ride in the rain and do it if you want.  Or say screw that and watch a movie inside.  Just enjoy yourself and keep the adventure alive.

For the full set of photos from the trip, go here.

For Emma’s write-up of this trip, go here.

A Keystone Divided

Emma and I just spent the last week riding our bikes across the state of Pennsylvania, this time from the northern border with New York to the southern border with Maryland pretty much right down the middle of the state.  You may remember that a few years back we crossed the state the other way from Pittsburgh to Philadelphia following the Crush the Commonwealth route.

For the past five years we have been doing at least one large bike tour each year. Twice we’ve done the GAP/C&O route between Pittsburgh and DC, the aforementioned Crush the Commonwealth route, the length of the Spanish Pyrenees, a week in the Adirondacks as well as many other short trips.  These previously trips were mostly more traditional biketouring trips that were on public roads, rail trails or other mostly maintained trails.  For these trips we took our road bikes and packed our gear on rear racks with side panniers.

In the last couple years after picking up mountain biking, I got more interested in the concept of bikepacking.  While bikepacking often incorporates some of the elements of a traditional tour – regular roads, rail trails, etc – the idea is to also get off the beaten path, get off road, tackle tougher terrain, etc.  I especially had interest in riding some portion of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route that goes from Banff, Canada to the US-Mexico border.

In September 2015 I bought a new bike, a Salsa Fargo.  Part of the reasoning behind this purchase was the hope of beginning to do some bikepacking.  The Great Divide seemed like a big logistical step to start with, so I began researching more local routes that might work for backpacking.  In mid-October I stumbled upon this route through Pennsylvania that was laid out by a group of folks trying to put together an “Eastern Divide” route that would mimic the Great Divide on the East Coast. By mid-November Emma and I would commit to trying to ride it in 2016 and would begin buying the necessary gear to make it happen.

Emma’s written some about us testing out our various gear on her blog here, but this is a recap of the actual journey.  I may write more about the actual preparation for the trip later on, but for now this is just about the experience of the trip.

Travel Day
Logistics for trips like this can always be a pain – if you are starting in one city and ending in another, how do you handle that?  We realized our starting point, Wellsville, NY, was very close to our friend Deanna’s hometown of Olean, NY, so we asked her if she would be willing to drive up there with us and drive our car back to Pittsburgh for us.  She was down.

So on May 20th we picked Deanna up and headed off to NY.  Of course not before having to run back across town to our house because I forgot to pack my multi-tool, which while not 100% necessary, is one of those things that is nice to have on such a trip.  We picked up her partner Dino on the way and had a fun time catching up with them on the 4-ish hours to our destination.  After dropping us off, they headed to Olean to visit Deanna’s family.

There’s not too much to do in Wellsville, so we hit up the grocery store to get some last bits of food supplies, made some sandwiches for dinner and then prepared our bikes in the hotel room.  Got off to sleep at a decent hour and prepared for day one of the journey.

Woke up early, had hotel breakfast and were on the road by 9am.  Light drizzle when we started.  First 8 or so miles were just getting out of NY – lots of sheep, horses, cows and an alarming number of Trump signs and Confederate flags.  Got to the border and took pics near the “Welcome to Pennsylvania” sign.  Lots of broken glass around that sign. Figure it must be a target for the drunks of NY.  Managed to get back on the road without a flat.

After successfully riding 9 miles!

Stopped in Ulysses to get second breakfast at the Corner Cafe.  Barely anyone in there so figured we could get in and get going real fast.  No dice.  Took an hour to get a waffle, some toast and some homefries. Was nice to warm up but while we were in there the rain picked up.  Paper placemats had great ads on them for local companies including one for a dog training company that used the email address “narcdog1@gmail”.

Shortly thereafter we would take some wrong roads adding some bonus miles on our day.  Luckily Emma had the foresight to download a GPS app for her phone and the route file for our trip and we were able to easily determine where we made our errors and get back on track.

Then we were off on the first of our dirt roads.  Davis Hill Road was only about .6 miles long but it was gutted out and steep.  We were rewarded with a fabulous descent down Snay Road afterwards though.  Came upon a Rest Area on Route 6 during a lull in the rain and took the opportunity to make sandwiches and rest.

Our first tastes of dirt!

After that the rain picked up again and got heavier as we proceeded down our last 10-15 miles.  This mixed with some rougher surfaces – dirt roads and fresh crushed gravel really began to wear us down.  We got to cruise down some muddy mountain roads in the rain which was really fun but we got filthy.

Dirt McGirt & sidekick

Finding a place to do some primitive camping in Tioga State Forest turned out to be tough.  Not too much flat surfaces to set up a tent.  We crawled up off the side of the road and found a decent spot, set up our tent in the rain and then made a pasta dinner in the rain.  Towards the end of the day I had started to experience some hiccups, a condition I sometimes get in cooler weather when I ride long distances.  While eating my dinner I started hiccuping again and almost vomited up my dinner.  I took a moment, felt better and finished my dinner.  We then climbed into the tent for the night around 6:30pm.

Had a few deliriously good hours of sleep and woke up shortly after midnight having to piss.  It was barely raining at that time so I got out and took care of business.  It was actually quite lovely at that time.  From there on out woke up every couple hours to the sound of it still raining.  In the morning we kept waiting for a break in the rain but it never happened.  After about 14 straight hours in the tent, we opted for a Clif bar breakfast and then packed up in the rain and hit the road.

Since it seemed like it was bound to rain all day again, we made two decisions 1) we were not going to follow the day’s planned route which took us up a 6 mile, 1300 ft in elevation gain trail, and 2) we were going to get ourselves all the way to the town of Jersey Shore and get a hotel.

Early in our day we were confronted with a “bridge out” sign, but we took the gamble and rode down the road.  Luckily the bridge was far enough along in construction that it was passable by foot, so we ambled across and continued down West Rim Road.  This road was an absolute pleasure – lots of one lane bridges and twists and turns.

From here we hopped on the Pine Creek Rail Trail (which we had some trouble finding and put on another handful of bonus miles) but once on there the riding was easy.  This trail would take us all the way to Jersey Shore.  We were hoping to find a shelter along the way to make some second breakfast but apparently the stewards of this trail only believe in benches – no picnic benches, no shelters of any kind along most of the trail.

We arrived in Slate Run (where we would have originally crossed over the creek to follow up the 1300′ climb) and made ourselves oatmeal under the eave of an informational kiosk.  Not the most spacious quarters but it got the job done.  We were helped by the fact that the rain had pretty much stopped at this point.

The biggest shelter we could find

We then walked up to the General Store where the sweet women who worked there cleaned and filled our water bottles, recommended and got us in contact with the hotel in Jersey Shore and sold us a couple donuts.  After that the sun started trying to come out and we actually almost dried out by the time we reached Waterville.  Of course the last 10 miles from Waterville to Jersey Shore the rain picked up again and we were soaked and filthy by the time we reached our accommodations for the evening.

The Gamble Farm Inn looked like a pretty fancy place when we rolled up.  A big old house, but once I stepped inside it was obvious that that building was just the restaurant and bar.  I walked in and poked my head around looking for someone to help us out and finally a lady appeared out of nowhere saying “I thought I heard someone come in.”  I gave her my name and she basically handed me a key and pointed me in the direction of the rooms.  No ID, no credit card, no paperwork.  Nice.

Got into our room and spread out EVERYTHING around the room to dry it out.  Cranked the heat and took showers, glorious showers.  Emma then used the microwave to make us our mac n cheese dinner.  After dinner took the time to do a little bike maintenance down in the game room where we were able to store our bikes.

In the morning discovered I had a flat front tire.  Tried finding the leak to no avail so swapped out for a new tube.  Stashed the questionable tube in case I would need it down the road.  Backtracked a couple miles and stopped at the Weis to stock up on some groceries.  No rain so far.

Several miles out of town I realized that the cycle computer I bought for the trip stopped working.  Not a major deal but we were relying on being able to track distances since we knew there was going to be a lack of signage and often all we knew was “we need to go on this road for 2.7 miles and then turn right”.  Knowing when 2.7 miles happened is useful information.  The computer would sporadically start working and then stop working again.  Whatever.  We did fine without it.

Got back to forest roads and we couldn’t find the trail that we were supposed to take off Krape Road, so we just continued along Krape which eventually would connect us with where we needed to go.  Krape was a hell hill that kept going on.  I think the trail that we were supposed to be on would have gone over the same hill, so maybe just evens?  The hill almost broke us but the descent and the ensuing roads were so great that we got reinvigorated.

We stopped atop Pipeline Road, ate lunch and got visited by a guy in a DCNR truck.  He assured us that we shouldn’t see any rain.  After that we hit up our first real trail – Duncan Trail – a “drivable trail” that was really rocky doubletrack that rattled the bones.

Flatbread, peanut butter, sliced apples

Slow & steady makes it over the mountain.

Got to Raymond B. Winter State Park where we had an overly complicated conversation with the ranger and campsite host about registering for a site and which site to camp on, etc.  After getting to our campsite we felt a difference in the air and it seemed like a storm was in fact going to come through.  We ducked down to the bathhouse with our gear and waited out a quickly passing storm.

Afterwards we set up camp.  While Emma started prepping dinner I rode back over to the beach area where there was a vending machine and got us a couple ice cold sodas.  Such a treat after a hard day of pedaling.  Ate a dinner of carrot-lentil curry and took advantage of having showers again.

Woke up in the morning to discover that one of the water bottles we left on the campsite’s picnic table had been attacked by some animal.  Three small tooth punctures on the bottle.  Seemingly smaller than I would expect from a bear but larger than most other things I can think of.  Not sure what it was but it was a good reminder to be careful with packing our stuff up at camp.

The initial ride out of camp was lovely but then we would approach our nemesis for this trip – Fallen Timber Trail (FTT).  FTT is a 5 mile connector trail.  The comment on mtbproject.com says “A fairly miserable trail, but it makes a good connector, so what are you going to do?”  The initial section had been freshly bulldozed at 10-15′ intervals, so you would have a section of soft, recently plowed dirt followed up by hard, rocky trail.  We came to a clearing and thought “maybe it’ll get better on the other side”, but no, worse.  It just became one big rocky mess.  Then the wild rose showed up on the trail.  So we’re walking this trail (cuz its mostly too rough to actually ride), bumbling over rocks, looking out for Timber Rattlers, and getting scratched up by thorns.  And then Emma got a flat.

The evil that was Fallen Timber Trail

Smilin’ & Patchin’

We’re not sure if she got multiple flats at once or if one of the thorns was still stuck in her tire and kept re-puncturing her tube, but we tried 3-4 times to get the tire fixed without luck.  I then pulled out her backup tube to realize that somehow we had brought an incorrect size tube.  1.5″ tube for a 2.1″ tire.  We opted to put it in and see how it would work.  Between the trail condition and the tube issues we ended up spending almost 3 hours on this shitty section of trail.  We got to the end and took a rest and gave FTT a big middle finger.

We rolled down the hill and started up the next hill when the 1.5″ tube blew out along the seam.  So we tried patching the already severely patched tube that we had again.  It was still leaking but it was holding air enough that we could walk with the bike.  We decided to walk over the next mountain down to Route 45 where we figured we might be able to flag someone down who could either get us to a bike shop or assist us in some other way.

It was a long walk but we did it.  At 45 we were able to flag down a woman who couldn’t offer much help, but then another man came along who was walking his dog.  Together they remembered that there was a “adventure summer camp” down the road in Woodward and they thought they might have what we need (or at least be able to point us where we could get it).  The man had a van so he let us load up our bikes and drove us the 4-5 miles to this camp.

Woodward Camp is a sprawling horse-ranch sized complex that houses a summer camp for gymnastics, cheerleading, BMX, skateboarding and more.  It is apparently an internationally known place.  We rolled up and I asked a guy “You work here?”  Sure enough he did.  They didn’t have any innertubes at the camp but he thought he might have one at his house and he lived just up the hill.  He hopped in his car and came back 5 minutes later with the right tube and a floorpump.  After fixing the tire, he gave us a tour of the premises and let us fill up our water bottles.

After looking at the maps we realized we were just a couple miles off our intended route and decided to get back on track and make it to Poe Paddy State Park for the night.  Woodward Gap Road was a pretty tough climb but it felt good to be pedaling again and then it brought us to Cherry Run Road which was an incredibly refreshing 4 mile continual descent that brought us to the Penns Creek Path.  That trail took us through the Poe Paddy tunnel (newly reopened, but not particularly impressive.  really short, but nice enough) and to the state park.

At the state park we saw that they expected you to go to the “nearby” Poe Valley State Park to register for a campsite.  We said screw that and settled into an unused site.  Starving as we were, food was our first course of action.  While sitting there post dinner we were approached by an older woman named Ann who upon hearing our situation offered to let us set up on the tent pad on her site.  Ann and her friend talked with us a long while about what we were doing and about their history with Poe Paddy. Ann had been coming there for decades since she was first brought there by her husband on their first date.

They would later invite us to spend time around the campfire at another couple’s site, more old friends who had been coming to the park for decades.  We stayed up late (past 11!), ate candy and talked about adventures.  Ann had offered to drive us to State College to a bike shop but during the campfire hangout time a plan was hatched for Ann to drive and pick up innertubes for us and then drive them to the next state park we were staying at.  We had had such a shitty start to the day but had met so many wonderfully helpful people that day.  We went to bed feeling pretty good.

The day started with some ATV trails – Little Poe Road and Panther Run Road.  These road/trails were just what I had imagined this trip would be like – rocky and difficult but not excruciatingly so.  We enjoyed these trails.  After that, in order to make up some time from the previous day, we skipped out on some of the single track and stuck to the roads.

When we got to Stillhouse Road, the connector road between Bald Eagle and Rothrock State Forests, we saw another “bridge out” sign.  Once again we decided to push forward.  We found a gated bridge that was totally passable about a 1/4 mile down the road and thought nothing of it but then another short bit later we came to a true “bridge out”.  It was just a series of a half-dozen steel I-beams.  It was maybe 8-10′ to the stream below.  The beams were wide enough that we were able to tagteam our bikes and walk them over with one of us steadying the handles and another holding on to the backend.  The next section of the trail was a wonderful Rhododendron hallway followed by a rough and tumble descent that TWICE! ejected waterbottles from the cages on my bike.


Examining the situation.  This was not to be a one-man job.

We did intend to take some singletrack once we got to Rothrock State Forest but never found our entry point.  Once again it was hard to tell if this was a blessing or a curse as the climb over Kettel Road was relentless, but were pretty sure the single track was going to be a series of tough climbs and rocky trails.  We walked our bikes a bit but we eventually made it over Kettel Road and then had a wild descent down Rag Hollow Road to the Greenwood Furnace State Park ranger station where we found our innertubes from Ann waiting for us.

While at the ranger station a park employee came rolling up on a Surly and talked with us a bit about our bikes and our trip.  He told us they had a Surly Ogre built up as their park bike for employees to use.  Pretty cool.

After 2 nights of staying in crowded state parks we were surprised that Greenwood Furnace was mostly a ghost town.  Only like 3 other campsites were in use.  It was another camp with showers, so we took advantage of that again, got our phones charged up in the bathrooms and then Emma made her best meal of the trip – peanut noodles that were really so damn good and I wish I would have had a second serving of.  Got to bed early in anticipation of a big crusher the next day – trying to make up the 27 miles we were still behind on our initial schedule.

Extremely delicious (and beautiful!) peanut noodles

This day would end up being a bit of blur.  We would spend almost 10 hours on the road that day, leaving camp around 7:30am and not getting into our next camp until shortly after 5pm.  We would climb over 4 mountains.  We made up our mileage, but at what cost?  We would find out.

Guess who got another mysterious overnight flat?

The first two mountains of the day went surprisingly easy.  Well, easy may not be the right term, but we conquered them and felt really strong and good.  Rolling down off of Jack’s Mountain we rolled into farmland and Amish country.  After so many days of being in foresting country it felt great to roll by some fields and to have some paved roads again.  Also saw an establishment that advertised itself as “Angel’s Therapeutic Massage” and had a confederate flag with an AK-47 printed overtop of it on the window.  Interesting.

Atop Jack’s Mountain.  The graffiti said “Brave Mountain Club”.  Indeed!

Stopped in McVeytown at the first convenience store that we had seen in days.  Stocked up on Clif bars and got some Gatorade, potato chips and a tiny apple pie to eat.  Spent some time sitting outside the convenience store like juvenile delinquents crushing a bag of chips and catching up with the outside world (first cell signal in several days).

Meal of champs

Our 3rd mountain climb of the day still went well but things went downhill a bit after that. We skipped stopping in East Waterford because I was under the false belief that there was another convenience store a bit down the road.  I think I had marked it wrong on my cue sheet.  Thus when we had failed to get another round of cold drinks and extra calories, our spirits (and bodies) began to flounder.  Our final climb over Tuscarora mountain was a tough one and we were spent; we ended up walking much of it.  We got another short burst  of energy once we were over the mountain but once again ran out of steam as we needed to do another small climb to get to Fowlers Hollow State Park.  After one last hike-a-bike, we got to camp, feeling completely spent.

It was another oddly empty campsite.  Despite feeling completely spent, we were both in really great spirits and really proud of ourselves for tackling all of those mountains on the same day.  We’re figuring we probably did over 6000′ in elevation gain that day over about 54 miles.  We’re pretty tough.

We expected to wake up feeling like shit after yesterday’s epic ride, but we woke up at 6am with both of us feeling pretty great.  Strong like ox!  We had no more oats so it was a Clif bar breakfast with some hot beverages and then we were on the road again.

We had one really big climb to start the day which went well.  We were then supposed to get on a trail for a bit.  We found the trailhead and went in about a 1/4 mile or so until the trail seemed to disappear.  Using the GPS we tried to re-find the trail but no matter what we did we couldn’t seem to get back on the line.  At one point I walked into the forest with the GPS (leaving Emma and my bike behind) in order to see if I could get on the line and re-discover the trail.  After walking for a bit I saw a guy walking down a trail.  I decided to not call out to him (yelling at sportsmen in the woods seems like a bad idea) but once he passed I ran ahead and sure enough there was a trail.  I turned around and headed back in the direction I thought I had come from and suddenly realized I couldn’t find Emma.

Lost in the woods, fording a stream for no good reason

Our steeds relaxin’ in the sun

I began calling her name; no answer.  Ok, getting a little louder now; still no answer.  Ok, time to get real loud; finally an answer.  Ahhh, the thought of us both being separately lost in the woods made me feel a bit sick for a moment.  Got back to Emma and said “We just need to go that way and there is a trail”.  Of course once we tried to go back we couldn’t find the trail again so we re-traced out steps and went back to the road.  From there we just took the road instead of the trail.  It added maybe an additional 4-5 miles but at least we knew where we were (and we got to see a porcupine climb a tree).

Rolled down another killer descent into Newburg where I saw an Amish girl mowing a lawn in her bare feet.  I had a cell signal so I pulled up a map.  The map showed a Starbucks a few blocks away. That didn’t seem right (and it wasn’t) but we looked anyway.  No Starbucks and no other convenience store or anything but we did find a vending machine outside the fire department.  Got a Gatorade from the machine and cooled off in a shady alleyway.

The stretch from Newburg to Shippensburg was rolling hills on a kinda shitty section of state highway.  Not too much traffic but definitely more than we had been used to seeing.  Emma was feeling pretty beat up so we had some heart-to-heart talk about whether we should just get a hotel in Shippensburg for the night.  After looking at the maps a bit we realized we could go off-route again cutting our one last big climb of the day and still make it to Caledonia State Park.  We decided to push on.

We made a quick stop at Aldi for some grocery supplies and then pushed on.  After being exposed to the hot sun for so many miles it felt good to get back into Michaux State Forest and the forest roads.  We had a steady climb into the forest and then the last few miles towards camp were downhill and we passed a lovely reservoir within the forest with people out kayaking on it.  I kinda wanted to stop and check it out but the siren call of the campsite was strong.  We rolled into Caledonia State Park and registered for camp at the ranger station only to realize the campsites themselves were up another small hill.  We gave it a valiant effort but ended up pushing our bikes up to the camp.

Last night of camp and we wound up on a weird wedge of real estate on a kinda hilly section of the campground.  We found a relatively flat place to set up camp.  We hosed down a container of hummus with tortillas and got washed up.  An evening storm came pushing through so we took shelter under the eave of the back of the bathhouse which conveniently had an outdoor electric socket.  We sat watching campers scamper around in the rain, charged up our phones and wrote in our journals.  It was pleasant.  Eventually the rain ended and we cooked up one last camp meal, made some tea and then ate an entire box of Aldi’s fake Girl Scout Samoas.  I probably could have done with about 3 less cookies but it felt right.

Tired lil camper loungin’ & blowin’ up a sleeping pad

Last day on the road.  Clif bar breakfast and had just enough gas left in the tank to heat up water for coffee/tea.  The morning started with a chill 6 mile climb that went easy enough and then hit a couple sections of trail.  We went off the original route a bit, opting to go on forest roads instead of single track.  Waterline Road had a picked clean deer skeleton at the entrance to the trail and then as the name suggests was a bit wet, but otherwise was a really nice section of trail.  We passed a turnoff for another trail and then our road came to a sudden end.  After consulting the map, we figured we had to turn down the other trail and then make another turn to keep going straight.  Turned out to be true.  Another speedy decent down a skittish crushed gravel road let us to our final section of trail – Monn’s Gap Road.  This was a really fun trail to ride and one that probably would have been more fun if we weren’t fully loaded down.  Lots of relatively small (3-5″) branches across the trail which was a fun change of pace.  Hop, hop, hop.

Oh, Pennsylvania – you amaze and disappoint.

The trail came to an end in a spiderweb of directions.  We tried consulting some maps, picked a direction and ended up in the backyard of a tiny house (but not like a hip tiny house, a beat-up, hillbilly tiny house with “no trespassing” signs), so we re-routed a bit and found a road.  After once again consulting some maps we determined we were on the right road and pushed forth towards Waynesboro.  Took a little stroll down Wayneboro’s Main Street and admired the architecture of its buildings.  So close to our destination we decided not to dally too long and were once again off on our bikes.

The roads leading out of Waynesboro and towards Hagerstown were pleasant rollers, at least they would have been had we not been at the end of an 8 day journey.  Mostly they were fun but the lack of shoulders, some aggressive traffic and some tired legs made them a bit more challenging.  When an oil truck trying to back into a driveway blocked our way, we took the opportunity to sit in the shade and grab a few calories.  I realized at this time that I had a slash in my rear tire’s sidewall.  Nothing very deep but definitely something I didn’t want to spend too much time on.  Luckily we were like 5 miles away from our endpoint.  As we sat there, a woman rode by on a bike in one direction and then minutes later a small peloton of spandex clad folks rode in the other.  It was nice to see other bikers out.

Got back on our bikes and the Maryland border was really like just over a half mile around the corner.  No “Welcome to Maryland” sign but there was a “Welcome to Washington County” sign, so that had to do.  Stopped and took photos and then pressed on for the last few miles, which were relatively flat and made for a nice finish.  We had told Deanna to pick us up at the Dunkin Donuts near the Hagerstown airport (since our hotel in Wellsville, NY had been right next to a Dunkin Donuts, we figured why not end at a Dunkin Donuts?), but then once we got in the area we saw a Sheetz and decided to end the trip there.


We changed out of our filthy bike clothes into our slightly less filthy camp clothes, bought a heap of food and cold drinks and chilled in the cafe waiting for Deanna come to pick us up. We did it and we felt like champs.

Deanna arrived about an hour later.  We loaded up and headed back towards the Burgh, blasting the songs on the radio that had been running through our heads all week.  Arrived home, picked a huge pile of strawberries that had ripened in the backyard, got washed up and got dinner at Taste of India.  I definitely ate too much and had to come home and lay down on the couch for awhile.  It was worth it.  It was all totally worth it.

For my full set of photos, go here.

For Emma’s write-up of the trip, go here.  For her set of photos, go here.





Process: Rough’n & Grouse’n

Hey – so I was doing that “A Season of Stuff” project and things started feeling a bit self-indulgent and I felt my writing going downhill instead of improving, so I opted to take a break.  Here we are a week and a half later and nobody seems to have noticed, so i’m not sure if i’ll continue or not.  But here’s another little something for anyone who’s hanging around.


As most anyone who knows me knows, I love Pennsylvania.  I’ve lived here my entire life.  I have the state tattooed on my arm. I have keystone imagery everywhere in the house.  I’m about to head out on a cross-state bike excursion to go explore whole new sections of the state.  For some reason last Wednesday I was thinking about various other Pennsylvania imagery beyond the keystone and I got to think about the Ruffed Grouse, our state bird.

I came home that night and started looking up some images of ruffed grouses and did a few quick sketches.  After a couple attempts I landed on the image in the upper right-hand corner of the above photo.  The next day I cleaned up the image and inked it. It was a fun little image but I didn’t really have any plans for it.

Over the weekend after looking at this image for a few days decided I wanted to make a screen of it, if only for my own purposes.  Instead of going the normal route of making a transparency of the image, I decided to try another technique that I had heard about.  Rumor had it that you could take a normal photocopy on regular weight copy paper, coat the paper in vegetable oil or baby oil to make the paper translucent and then use that in the same way that you would use a transparency.  I had always been skeptical about this process, but this image seemed like a good way to test it.

I went online and found a couple blog posts talking about their success with this technique, including this one and this one.  Seeing some successful screens burned using this technique emboldened me to give it a try.

Last night I reclaimed a screen and coated the screen with emulsion. The jar of emulsion I have is getting hella old but it still continues to work, so I keep rolling with it, but wondered if it might not be ideal for this test.  My concern being that since the paper is translucent and not truly transparent, I would want to expose the image longer to make up for the fact that less light was actually getting through.  Would the change in technique and the old emulsion mean that I would overexpose or underexpose the image?

I got up this morning and tried to burn the screen before I left for work.  I put the image at the normal distance from the light and decided to go an extra minute than I normally would.  Unfortunately this was perhaps a bit of an overburn.  The image wouldn’t wash out.  I took a toothbrush to the screen to try to help get the image cleaned out and then it started coming out…but then it accelerated and began washing out the rest of the emulsion too.  Conceding failure, I washed out the screen and went to work.

I came home from home and re-applied emulsion to the screen and set it to drying.  I modified the exposure setup, moving the image closer but thinking that I would do the exposure for the normal amount of time (2 minutes).  After the emulsion seemed to be dry, I gave it a shot.  This time I had about a 95% success rate, but the emulsion wasn’t 100% set.  I’m not sure if this was perhaps because I didn’t let the emulsion dry long enough before exposing, because I didn’t expose the image long enough, etc.

Most of the image looked fine tho’ the tail section was a bit washed out.  The emulsion left on the screen was kinda tacky/wet and didn’t seem 100% exposed.  I left it under a light bulb for further exposure but that was going kinda slow.  Heat works just as well as light, so I turned the oven on to 250 degrees and threw the screen in the oven for like 5 minutes.  That dried it up and hardened the emulsion.  With a little masking tape help to clean up the lines of the tail, I ran this test run of images and they turned out really pretty nice, all things considered.

I look forward to experimenting more with this oil technique and with more images of our feathered friend.

A Season of Stuff: messy work surfaces

A Season of Stuff is a writing challenge that I will be doing for the length of Spring 2016.  The plan – to pick some object from within my personal possessions each day and write about it – its history, its significance, etc.  Come on in – check out my stuff.


the basement woodworking/project area


the upstairs screenprinting/project area

We spent a little time tonight checking out some of the open studio events that were part of the FULLTIMEPGH festival of local creative types.  We only got to check out two studios – Garbella and Sapling Press.  It’s always inspiring to get into other people’s spaces, see how they set up there studios and get a closer look at the work they do.

I’ve been friends with Amy of Garbella for awhile now and I’ve missed out on checking out her studio/storefront space multiple times now.  Her band Reign Check is playing the show that i’ve been silkscreening flyers for, so it doubled as a good excuse to get down there and give her a short stack of flyers.  Took a little time to talk process with her and she showed me the exposure unit she uses to burn her screens (very similar to the one I talked about the other day) and admitted to many years of burning screens with a single lightbulb as well.


Final 3-layer version of the flyer

After leaving Garbella we shot across Lawrenceville to Sapling Press, which is primarily a letterpress studio.  Really lovely old machines.  Ellery (who we are babysitting for the weekend) got to roll out a print on one of the machines with some help from Emma.  Pretty cool.  Upstairs from the studio is the offices of Bootstrap design where they were hosting the Pittsburgh Poster Show portion of the event.  Some fun poster designs in the show but the clear winner for me was this Strawberry Luna “City of Bridges” diptych.

The thing that struck me about all of these spaces was how clean and organized they were.  Of course they might just have been tidied up for this specific affair, but the general evidence seemed to indicate that these are workshops that are regularly well organized.  It’s hard at times like this not to feel a bit embarrassed about the state of my work areas.  In order to do my recent prints of these flyers, I had to remove stacks of materials from the work surface and  push things to the side.  The downstairs woodworking area looks like an avalanche.  I struggle with this; what does it mean about my commitment to my work?  What does it say about my work ethic?  I know some people say a messy work area indicates a creative mind, but maybe its just laziness.

I think this relates to a couple of my other struggles.  First is the life of a generalist.  I can do a lot of things ok – construction, woodworking, metalworking, silkscreening, drawing, drumming, etc, but I’ve never committed enough time to any one creative pursuit in order to really conquer it.  In some ways I feel this shows a lack of focus on my part, but in another way it shows a curious mind.  At nearly 42 years of age i’m not sure how likely I am to change these patterns, but at revolving intervals I try.  I get a little more serious about things – I build a proper silkscreening exposure unit, for example – and learn new skills, but then something new catches my eye and i’m off to a different thing.

Another struggle that’s been on my mind as I work on my piece for the Sidewall Project is with this feeling that i’m not a “real artist”, whatever that means.  My art leans heavily towards the “folk art” end of the spectrum.  It is not “fine art” (lots of quotes getting thrown around here).  Sometimes it just feels corny and weird and what’s the point, right? Who likes this stuff?  Who wants this stuff?  But apparently some people do get enjoyment out of it and probably more important than anything, I enjoy the process of creating and making, so of course there is some value in it.  But sometimes I just wish I was a “better” artist and I know that probably if I put the ol’ nose to the grindstone I could get better and be a more impressive artist, but once again, that’s not my nature.  I have a way.  I have a style and maybe I should just embrace that, right?

But mostly this is all to say: Keep making.  Keep doing.  Go check out other peoples’ creative spaces when you get a chance.  Get inspired.  Learn a new thing or two.  Learn how to do an old thing a little bit better.  Think about what you do.  Dwell on it occasionally, but not for too long.  Make some more stuff.  Share with friends.

A Season of Stuff: one for the manor

A Season of Stuff is a writing challenge that I will be doing for the length of Spring 2016.  The plan – to pick some object from within my personal possessions each day and write about it – its history, its significance, etc.  Come on in – check out my stuff.


I think upon buying our house Emma and I knew that it would eventually have a name.  We didn’t rush to give it a name; you don’t want to force these things.  But somewhere along the way, like every good punk house (and we do consider it a punk house, read my thoughts on that in the “Drag Me Home” compilation/zine), it ended up with one: Torley Manor.

But where did the name come from?  I don’t really remember how it came about.  Clearly the first half of the name is derived from the street that our house is on, but why manor?  I can only guess that I was inspired by Calgary Manor, one of the punk houses that Social Distortion/Youth Brigade end up at in Another State of Mind.  The residents described themselves as “one big happy family” and in the movie they cooked up a huge meal for the bands and all the local punks.  It always seemed like such a great example of punk community.  Of course they also say “Most of the punks come party here”, which does not accurately describe our house, but whatever.  Anyway, I don’t recall pulling that out as a reference when the name “Torley Manor” came about, but it stands out in my head as a possible influence.

*  *  *

Almost every year our friend Bethany goes off to “ceramics camp”, a weeklong getaway where she gets away and does pottery/ceramics.  Some years Eric the Red (her partner) goes along with her.  Several years after we bought the house and after the Torley Manor name was well established he went along to ceramics camp and that year he made us this ceramic nameplate.  It’s just a slab of clay with stamped in letters and three owl designs (they are not what they seem!) stamped in the corners.  A couple mounting holes and glazed up.  Nothing fancy but a nice addition to the house from a friend.  It’s been hanging in our kitchen ever since.

A Season of Stuff: poundin’ iron

A Season of Stuff is a writing challenge that I will be doing for the length of Spring 2016.  The plan – to pick some object from within my personal possessions each day and write about it – its history, its significance, etc.  Come on in – check out my stuff.


From 2006 through the beginning of 2012 I worked for a company called Red Star Ironworks, a small local custom ornamental ironwork company.  I was the “office manager”, working in the office handling phone calls, finances, ordering, scheduling, human resources, etc.  Basically I did a bit of everything, including being called into service to help carry heavy pieces of ironwork, help do the occasional installation, and other shop related work.  For the most part I stayed out of the shop but the great thing was that my boss was totally cool with me using the tools there and encouraged me to learn some basic blacksmithing and welding skills.

One of the first times I got to work in the shop was when Red Star was supposed to make a handful of awards for Bike Pgh, an organization we had worked with extensively in building their iconic Three Rivers bikeracks.  My boss Peter kept putting it off until they were almost due and finally it was coming down to when they needed them.  I told him “We need to get these things done.  We’re gonna come into the shop at night and you’re going to show me some skills and we’re gonna knock these things out.”   And we did, making a handful of trophies that were tiny versions of the Three Rivers bikerack.  Bike Pgh still gives these as awards but the newer ones look like they are just lasercut out of sheet metal.  That original batch were full-on blacksmithed, so if you have one of those, consider yourself extra lucky.

One of the projects that I wanted to do when I started was to build my own new railing for the front steps of our house.  I drew up a design and made a full-size drawing of it.  I spent a couple nights at the shop with Peter and he showed me a little of what was necessary to get the railing built.  I bent some of the necessary pieces, did some cutting and then those pieces would sit in the back of the office for years and never get completed.  Looking back on it, that’s probably fine because the design was a little overdone.

During one other nighttime session when I was trying to learn some skills, I got to work on some forge work, which means getting the steel red hot in the forge and then manipulating the steel either by bending it or hammering it.  The photo above is one of the pieces I worked on that night.  It has no specific function but it was my first time really heating up a piece of steel and banging it into a shape.  It now hangs out by our front door and is used as a sometimes doorstop.


Over the coming years I would get to learn a lot more about working with metal culminating in my largest project – a run of 100+ of these keystone coathooks.  The original batch were all hand cut out of steel bar, but the major run of about 100 of these were lazer-cut out of sheet metal.  The final assembly of the hooks still required some countersinking of the holes using a drill press, smoothing the sharp edges off using an angle grinder and then welding the hook and back piece together using a MIG welder.

Angle grinders are scary.  I’ve worked with lots of power tools over the years – circular saws, table saws, nailguns, etc, but angle grinders are probably the scariest thing i’ve ever used.  I had the displeasure of seeing a couple angle grinder accidents during my time at Red Star, including seeing one guy take a grinding wheel to the face.  Not pleasant.  Luckily I kept my head about me and had no major accidents to my name.

Welding is a pretty fun skill to learn.  It takes a bit of time but there is a certain meditative nature that comes with it once you get in the groove.  At the end of doing 100+ of these hooks, I felt like I finally was getting the feel for it, just in time to never use the skill again probably.

Unfortunately since leaving that job I no longer have access to these tools and metalworking is not something that most of us can set up and do in our own home.  Chances are my metalworking days are done, but if you get the chance to do some blacksmithing or welding, I definitely recommend giving it a shot.



A Season of Stuff: collected silkscreening supplies

A Season of Stuff is a writing challenge that I will be doing for the length of Spring 2016.  The plan – to pick some object from within my personal possessions each day and write about it – its history, its significance, etc.  Come on in – check out my stuff.


The first time I silkscreened was in 7th grade shop class (it might have been 8th grade).  It was at the height of the Op/Gotcha/whatever surf-related clothing trend, so I made a design that was this dude holding a surfboard.  It wasn’t the type of silkscreening where you use a photosensitive emulsion to expose your image; it was the type where you had a film that you cut out your design and adhered it to the screen.  Thus my design was really simple, but I remember that project fondly.

I wouldn’t silkscreen again until college, sophomore year.  I feel like at this time every other punk rock fanzine had a “how-to” article on how to do silkscreening at home.  I invested in a Speedball silkscreening starter kit, a 150-watt lightbulb, an aluminum pie plate and I was off on decade+ journey of piss-poor silkscreening, doing a bunch of patches and t-shirts for my bands, flyers for shows, some record covers, etc.

In 2009, after almost 15 years of half-assing my silkscreening, I had decided to try to become a bit better at it.  In an attempt to do so I took on doing a series of art prints that were multi-color.  In the past I had mainly stuck to single color prints or a couple multi-color prints where the registration was not significantly important.


One of my first multi-color art prints, made for Roboto’s 10th anniversary, November 2009

Over the coming years I would do a handful of 3-color art prints, sell silkscreened prints and other goodies at the local I Made It Market craft fairs and even create an Etsy shop.  During this period I would build a proper exposure unit to allow me to expose a screen in a matter of 2-3 minutes instead of futzing around with exposing a screen with a single 150-watt bulb for half a hour or so.  It’s amazing what having “proper” equipment will do.  The percentage of times that I need to re-burn a screen because it wasn’t properly exposed has been greatly reduced with building that unit.

Which brings me to my “stuff” for the day.  Over the years my interest in silkscreening has meant that i’ve adopted various silkscreening supplies from the people in my life.  Before heading off to California, Nathan Martin gave me a bunch of his silkscreens, including several that still had Creation is Crucifixion designs on them.  Friends who bought screens for one specific project would often give me them after they were done using it.  And shortly after I started doing these art prints, my father-in-law gave me a bunch of his old silkscreening supplies that he hadn’t used in some time.

Among these supplies were a bunch of abnormal size frames – mostly a bunch of smaller ones and a few “full-size” ones.  One that really caught my eye was the one in the top photo which has a screen size of about 10″ tall by maybe 3′ wide.  It presented a different layout that I wasn’t used to and I was eager to try to use it for something.

Shortly after getting the frame, my friend Jude asked me to be part of an art show dealing with mountaintop removal coal mining.  I decided to use this frame to make my print.  So I made a design that was short and wide of a bulldozer pushing along the lyrics to the song “They Can’t Put It Back”.

At this point I still hadn’t built my proper exposure unit, so to expose this screen I had to get creative.  For those unfamiliar, “burning” a silkscreen involves coating it in a photosensitive goop, letting it dry and then exposing it to light with a positive transparency of your image on top of the screen.  The areas of the screen that are exposed to the light react and become hardened while the areas of the screen hidden by the blacked out areas of the transparency don’t react and should wash out when rinsed with water.

Of course all of this relies on you having the proper amount of light at the right distance for the right amount of time.  Doing this with the gutter-tech setup of a single 150-watt lightbulb in the middle of the image often means that the middle of the image could get overexposed while the edges would get underexposed, meaning you couldn’t wash out the middle of the image while they sides of the screen might all wash out.  To do this long image, I tried setting up a double lightbulb exposure.  Of course this just meant that instead of a single hotspot, I had two hotspots.

In an attempt to get this screen properly burned, I burned and re-burned it at least a dozen times.  I nearly found my breaking point.  Seriously, I became so pissed, but eventually I would get a burn that I found acceptable and here is the final print:


Some of the text was still a bit sketchy but it worked with the overall feel of the print.  But this was the process that made me realize that if I wanted to be at all serious about doing silkscreening in my own home, I was going to have to upgrade my equipment and make a proper exposure unit (the key to my exposure unit is a handful of F20T12BL fluorescent blacklights).

I don’t do as much silkscreening these days as I did from 2009-2012 or so, but I’m still at it.  This week I’ve busted out this trusty old short and wide frame to use to make some flyers for the show i’m doing on May 13th.  Nothing too fancy on the design front this time around, but I plan to try out some process of multiple layers of the same print to get some interesting effects.  First layer went down tonight.  More shots as they come together.